‘Every Cook Ought to Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Secures 4th on List of London’s Top Restaurants.

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.

Laurie Jackson
Laurie Jackson

A passionate writer and educator dedicated to helping others find their voice through creative expression and storytelling.